Discover Haida Gwaii, Canada's 'Galapagos of the North'
There are so many reasons to visit the British Columbia archipelago of Haida Gwaii. For starters, it’s the most diverse marine wildlife area in Canada, hence the nickname “the Galapagos of the North.” And the Haida people have lived here for more than 12,500 years, so it’s a wonderful opportunity to learn about their culture. Then there are the hundreds of miles of coastline, pristine temperate rainforest and peaceful coves to explore.
“Haida Gwaii feels completely untamed in a way that’s rare to find now,” said Meagan Smith, a content creator who was born and raised in Canada. “There’s a stillness and remoteness that makes you slow down immediately.”
Because it’s so isolated from mainland British Columbia, “there are long stretches of road where you won’t see another vehicle,” she said. “Beaches feel endless and empty. There’s very little commercial development compared to more tourist-heavy destinations in Canada.”
Smith should know. She and her partner, Andy Jaffray, have been exploring Canada extensively for 10 years. “But what makes it truly special is the deep cultural presence of the Haida Nation,” she says.
“You’re stepping into a place with thousands of years of living history. That combination of raw nature and strong cultural identity makes it unlike anywhere else in Canada.”
Smith recommends starting at the Haida Gwaii Museum for context about the history, resilience and artistry of the Haida Nation. “Having that deeper understanding changes the way you experience the rest of the islands,” she said.
Pristine Lands
Smith and Jaffray took several hikes, with Tarundl Trail being one of their favorites. It’s a strenuous 2.9 miles out-and-back with 2,100 feet of elevation gain, but absolutely worth the trek thanks to the 360-degree views from the top. “You can see the islands stretching out in every direction. It’s hard to access the mountains by road in Haida Gwaii, so hiking is really the only way to experience views like that,” Smith said.
They also loved the Tow Hill hike in Naikoon Provincial Park, a moderate 1.5-mile roundtrip trek with 334 feet of elevation gain. The impressive volcanic plug, formed from molten lava eruptions about 2 million years ago, “juts dramatically out of the ocean and offers incredible coastal viewpoints. It’s shorter and more accessible than Tarundl, but equally memorable in a completely different way.”
After hiking, relax at Gray Bay on Moresby Island, pop over to Agate Beach for a stroll among Haida Gwaii’s iconic rocks and make time for Balance Rock, a beautiful rock formation right off the main road. Don’t forget your binoculars to scout for puffins, dolphins, orcas, sea lions and bald eagles, just to name a few species.
Explore the National Park
A visit to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, accessible only by boat or seaplane, is a must. Here, you’ll spot giant sea stars and anemones in the shallows. You’ll see monumental totem poles and the remnants of longhouses. And if you’re itching for time on the water, go kayaking in search of orcas and humpbacks, which migrate here in the spring. Just be sure to plan ahead: It’s recommended to book a guided tour with a licensed operator.
“I would recommend Haida Gwaii to anyone who values wild landscapes, cultural depth and experiences that feel meaningful rather than commercial,” Smith said. “It’s not a place you go for luxury or nightlife. You go for connection to nature, to history and for a slower pace.”
If You Go
When to visit: Summer offers the best wildlife-viewing opportunities and access to tours. “The winter months can be quite rainy and stormy, and many tourism operators either close or operate on reduced schedules. While it would still be beautiful in a moody way, it’s definitely more challenging logistically,” Smith said.
Getting there: Take a flight from Vancouver or travel by BC Ferries from Prince Rupert to Skidegate.
Where to stay: Haida-owned and operated Haida House at Tllaal has longhouse-style oceanside cabins where you can stargaze from your hot tub. It also has a boutique hotel and lodge offering locally inspired cuisine, cultural programming and eco adventures.