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Scotland

The worst part of my Scotland trip became my favorite memory

An unexpected setback helped reveal what makes Scotland so special beyond the guidebooks.

Portrait of Zach Wichter Zach Wichter
USA TODAY
June 14, 2026Updated June 17, 2026, 5:41 p.m. ET
  • Glasgow is a walkable city with many free museums, a lively music scene and diverse food options.
  • American tourism to Scotland remains strong, with visitors drawn to its history, culture and scenery.
  • Day trips from Glasgow, such as to Luss village on Loch Lomond, offer opportunities to experience Scotland's natural beauty.

On my first trip to Scotland, I was looking forward to exploring both city and country life.

I was especially looking forward to a day excursion from Glasgow to the village of Luss, which would give me a chance to see more of the countryside and take a boat tour of Loch Lomond.

As a city dweller, I tend to prioritize natural escapes when traveling, so a few hours on the water exploring the loch seemed like it would be the perfect capstone for my first trip to Scotland.

Unfortunately, I stood on the wrong side of the pier when it came time to board, and I literally missed the boat.

As I watched it motor away, I was feeling a deep sense of disappointment, but I took a few deep breaths and saw that there were some nice walking trails ringing the village, and I set out to clear my head.

That’s when the trip clicked into place for me.

On my recent trip to Scotland on United Airlines’ new nonstop flight from Newark, New Jersey, to Glasgow, I suddenly found myself surrounded by nature, and remembered that travel is what the traveler makes of it. From trying new foods (like haggis!) and listening to new music in cities, or rolling with the punches and taking in the air while listening to the soft babble of Luss Water, I felt like Scotland was sending me a message: take in the sights, have a wee dram of Scotch, and don’t overthink your travels.

View from the beach on Loch Lomond in Luss.

Official 2025 data is not yet available, but there were 964,339 inbound trips to Scotland from U.S. visitors in 2024, according to VisitScotland

"American visitors are drawn to Scotland’s rich history, culture and ancestral connections, alongside our world-famous scenery and warm, authentic welcome," Cat Leaver, VisitScotland’s director of strategy and competitive intelligence, said in an email. "Despite ongoing global travel uncertainty, demand from the US remains resilient. However, we are seeing some shifts in behaviour, including shorter booking windows and a more cautious, 'wait-and-see' approach among travellers."

Here are a few of the things I did there. My first trip to Scotland may not have gone totally to plan, but that makes me even more excited to go back:

What to do in Glasgow

Glasgow has great, well-curated art museums, delicious food and an excellent live music scene, but even after two days in the city, I felt like I hadn't totally figured out the vibe of my trip.

While Edinburgh has more direct flights from the United States, Glasgow’s new nonstop flight from Newark on United Airlines makes the city easier for Americans to reach, and means it’s a great launchpad for a trip to Scotland.

Glasgow is a relatively small, walkable city that a representative from VisitBritain, who attended United’s sendoff, compared to Philadelphia in his remarks.

It was an apt comparison. The blocks were short and manageable, and most of the major sites are reachable from the center of town on foot.

Some of the highlights of my days in the city included seeing the highland cows in Pollok Country Park and visiting the Burrell Collection art museum, also on the grounds of the park. Getting there required a short train ride to Pollokshaws West, about 10 minutes from Glasgow Central, for 3 British pounds, round trip (about $4).

Highland cows at Pollok Country Park in Glasgow.

The museum comprises entirely of objects from Sir William Burrell’s private collection, which he donated to the city of Glasgow for a free museum.

It’s just one of two great art collections in the city, the other being the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, which is also free to enter and has an eclectic mix of items from different periods and geographies.

Each museum can be covered in a few hours, but of course, visitors should go at their own pace.

Food and drink

No visit to Scotland would be complete without a Scotch whisky tasting, and the Clydeside Distillery in the heart of Glasgow is a convenient and photogenic place to partake.

Stills at the Clydeside Distillery in Glasgow.

Tours there include information about the history of scotch, how the Clyde riverbank morphed from industrial waterfront to tourist attraction, and, of course, the opportunity to sample the product. I particularly enjoyed the chocolate and whisky tour, which lasted about an hour and a half and cost 39 British pounds per person (about $52).

Glasgow also has plenty of pubs and restaurant options, many of which have live music on some nights of the week.

Shopping

Glasgow’s many commercial districts offer great shopping opportunities for visitors. In addition to the regular stores you'd expect to see in any major metro, smaller vendors at Barras Market are worth checking out, as are some of the off-the-beaten-path shops like those in Hidden Lane near the picturesque University of Glasgow campus.

Beyond the city

While Glasgow is great as a home base, Scotland’s rugged nature is a big draw for many travelers, and getting out of the city is worth the trip.

Luss Village is a well-equipped tourist site about an hour out of Glasgow by bus, and features its own distillery, a historic graveyard, nature trails and a sandy beach on Loch Lomond.

Boat tours on the Loch also leave from Luss – provided you don’t miss the boarding call.

Luss is also home to a wood-fired sauna just steps from the loch at the southern end of the village, which offers one-hour sessions for 12 British pounds per person (about $16). The sauna has a large window looking out over the water, and is a great activity to do with friends, or as a way to meet some new acquaintances during your session. You don’t have to do the cold plunge in the loch, but you should to help round out the experience.

The Hot Tottie sauna in Luss.

I’m usually not a big fan of saunas, but the one in Luss wasn’t overly hot, and the hour spent between the sauna and the chilly loch waters was refreshing and relaxing.

How to get there and where to stay

United Airlines is the only U.S. airline that serves Glasgow nonstop, but it’s reachable by connection from other major European hubs, and also isn’t far from Edinburgh’s airport, which has more direct flights from the United States.

Round-trip economy airfare for flights leaving Newark on July 6 and returning July 13 starts at $927 for the direct United flight, while connecting flights on Aer Lingus and British Airways are slightly more expensive, according to Google Flights.

Prices to Edinburgh on the same dates are similar.

To get from the airport to the center of the city, there are taxis and ride share options, as well as an express bus that leaves about every 10 minutes and costs 11 British pounds one-way or 17.50 British pounds round trip (about $15 and $23.50, respectively).

As a major city, Glasgow is home to a large variety of hotels at different price points, from major brands like Kimpton, Marriott and Hilton to boutique options.

Taking in the sights at the University of Glasgow.

Room rates are generally in the $130-$150 per night range between July 6 and 13, according to Expedia, though some hotels with rooms below $100 for budget travelers, or above $200 for those looking for a more luxe experience, are available.

A few days in Glasgow gave me a great introduction to Scotland, and makes me want to go back and explore the city and the country more.

The reporter on this story received access from United Airlines and Destination Glasgow. USA TODAY maintains editorial control of content. 

Zach Wichter is a travel reporter and writes the Cruising Altitude column for USA TODAY. He is based in New York and you can reach him at [email protected]. 

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