Experience the slow days of old Hawaii at Hanalei Bay on Kauai

Hanalei Bay is a time capsule of old Hawaii, where the days feel slower and the scenery more lush.

You won't find any major chain stores or restaurants, nor overcrowded resorts in this valley. Instead, Hanalei town is rooted in Kauai's history and lifestyle as a former thriving agricultural hub. Instead, there are taro farms, local boutiques and mom and pop eateries.

At the heart of the charming town is Hanalei Bay, an iconic bay where the community has gathered for decades to surf, swim and just relax. It's where salt water meets freshwater, with the Hanalei River mouth opening into the ocean.

You may recognize the 340-foot-long historic pier – first constructed in 1892 for the local rice farmers to send and receive shipments – in movies like the 1958 film South Pacific. Today, it's where kids and those young at heart like to jump off into the water.

Whenever I'm on-island, I'll make the trek out to Hanalei Bay, even though the journey on the single-lane highway plus some single-lane bridges can take upwards of an hour from the south shore.

Location

Hanalei, Kauai

Why it matters

This crescent-shaped bay is the hub of Kauai's north shore community and embodies what life is like on the island. Besides that, it's just a gorgeous two-mile beach against a backdrop of minimal development and pristine mountains with waterfalls.

What to see today

Catch a glimpse of what the locals are doing, likely gathering for potlucks on the beach or partaking in water sports like surfing, kayaking or paddle boarding.

Ask a local

Get a taste of Hanalei's agricultural tradition at Hanalei Taro, the food truck outpost of a locally owned taro farm located right at the base of the mountains. For six generations, the Haraguchi family has run the farm, originally named W.T. Haraguchi Farm.

At the food truck, you can try all things taro, as well as authentic Hawaiian cuisine, such as laulau, a dish where protein is steamed in tender taro leaves. I encourage visitors to try poi, a staple of the ancient Hawaiian diet. It's a lavender paste made of pounded taro with a tangy, earthy flavor. I'll always order the kulolo, a caramel-like dessert made of taro, sugar and coconut. They also add a modern twist to taro, with options like fruit smoothies and taro hummus with chips.

Plan your visit

• Best time: The beach is open year-round, but the water is calmest during the summer.
• Hours/admission: Free entry and there's a free parking lot, but it can be busy.
• Getting there: It's over 30 miles to get from Lihue Airport to Hanalei Bay, and it can take around an hour depending on traffic.
• Learn more: Visit the town's website for nearby shops, restaurants and events at visithanaleitown.com